Visiting Plitvice Lakes National Park访问普里特维采湖国家公园

Article source: http://travel-hints.info/ . 文章来源： http://travel-hints.info/ 。 Used with author's permission. 用作者的许可。

If anyplace on earth is a natural paradise, Plitvice Lakes National Park in Croatia is that place.如果地球上任何地点是一个自然的天堂，普里特维采湖国家公园在克罗地亚是地方。 Of all Croatia's eight National Parks, Plitvice is the oldest and most visited.所有克罗地亚的8个国家公园，普里特维采是最古老和最访问。 It's easy to see why.这不难看出为什么。 Bears and wolves lurk in its primeval forest; schools of silvery fish dart through its pristine rivers; its beech trees are a cacophony of chattering birds.熊和狼潜伏在原始森林;学校银色的鱼镖通过其清澈的河流，其山毛榉树是一个不协调的抖动鸟类。 The crown jewels are the 16 translucent lakes connected to each other by a breathtaking series of cascades.在皇冠上的宝石是半透明的湖泊16个相互连接的令人惊叹的一系列级联。 Dazzling as the Plitvice national park appeared on a recent visit, I couldn't help recalling that this exceptional site was a war zone during the breakup of former Yugoslavia.令人眼花缭乱的普里特维采国家公园出现在最近一次访问中，我不能不指出，这种特殊的网站是一个战区在解体前南斯拉夫。

Located near Croatia's then- disputed border with Bosnia-Hercegovina, the park's troubles began in 1991 when the Yugoslav army seized the park and turned it into an army barracks.位于克罗地亚当时的有争议的边界与波士尼亚，公园的麻烦开始于1991年时，南斯拉夫军队缴获的公园和把它变成一个军营。 The Croatian army forced them out in 1995 but, a year later, the effects of war were everywhere.克罗地亚军队迫使他们于1995年，但一年之后，战争的影响是无处不在。 The area surrounding the park was a nightmarish landscape of bombed out houses and abandoned farms.该地区周围的公园是一个恶梦般的风景炸毁的房屋和被遗弃的农场。 The park's three hotels were shot to pieces and part of the lake system was closed while specialists removed mines from the falls and forests.公园的三家酒店被击毙件和部分湖泊系统被关闭，同时拆除地雷的专家从瀑布和森林。

Shaking off the aura of gloom, I set out to tour the park that UNESCO had named a world heritage site.抖落身上的光环的阴影，我阐述了游览公园，联合国教科文组织评为世界遗产。 Even with only half the park open, I was soon entranced.即使只有一半的公园开放，我很快就进。

Miles of wooden walkways wound over, under and alongside the falls.迈尔斯的木制人行道的伤口下，和旁边的瀑布。 From merry two-foot bubblers to long walls laced with foam, the falling water was everywhere.从欢乐的两足泡沫长期墙壁带有泡沫，下降水是无处不在。 I resolved to return one day when the park had been rebuilt.我决心返回时，有一天公园已重建。

It happened that my grand return to Plitvice occurred this year at the end of a long, hard winter in central Croatia.这事，我的宏伟返回普里特维采发生在今年结束了漫长，艰苦的冬季中央克罗地亚。 Although I had visions of tranquil lakes shimmering under a blue sky the weather turned out to be cold, foggy and damp.虽然我曾设想静谧的湖泊波光下蓝天的天气原来是寒冷，大雾和潮湿。 But damp is good in Plitvice.但是，潮湿的是好的，普里特维采。 Between the melting winter snow and days of rain, much of the park was a roaring mass of water.之间的冬季积雪融化和天的降雨，大部分公园是一个轰鸣质量的水。 Water pounded into swollen lakes, flooded out the walkways and splashed through the trees.水袭击到肿胀的湖泊，淹没了人行道和溅到通过树木。 It was splendid.这是辉煌的。

Even better was the lack of other visitors.更是缺乏其他访客。 In the intervening nine years, Plitvice Lakes National Park has become Croatia's busiest tourist attraction welcoming some 750,000 tourists a year.在中间的9年中，普里特维采湖国家公园已成为克罗地亚最繁忙的旅游景点750000欢迎一些游客一年。 Nearly all come in July and August.几乎所有来到7月和8月。 "Please tell people to come in spring and autumn, if they can" my guide begged me. “请告诉人们来在春季和秋季，如果他们能够”我的指导哀求我。 The newly renovated hotels are now completely booked up in the summer and the walkways are elbow to elbow with camera clickers.新装修的酒店预订现在完全在夏季和人行道的肘部，以肘与相机遥控。

Although missing the summer greenery, I quickly grew to appreciate the bare trees that allowed an unobstructed view of the lakes and falls.虽然错过了夏季绿树，我迅速增长欣赏裸露的树木，使一个通畅鉴于湖泊和瀑布。 It was clear that the lake system is divided into four lower and twelve upper lakes.很显然，湖泊系统分为四个较低， 12上的湖泊。 Just past the main entrance, the Korana River drops a torrent of water 258 feet into a frothing pool that begins the lower lakes.刚刚过去的正门， Korana河的激流滴的水258英尺成发泡池，首先较低的湖泊。 Lying at the bottom of a canyon, the narrow lower lakes are bordered by steep limestone walls and climb like a giant staircase to the upper lakes.躺在底部的峡谷狭窄的降低湖泊边的陡峭的石灰石墙和攀登就像一个巨大的楼梯，上湖泊。 Wider and surrounded by dense forest, the upper lakes lie on a bed of dolomite.更广泛和周围茂密的森林，湖泊上躺在床上的白云石。 At the very top, the White and Black rivers are the spigots that water the park.在最上方的白色和黑色的河流有spigots ，水公园。 The high mineral content of the lakes explains their extraordinary colors, which range from day-glow green to deep azure.高矿物质含量的湖泊解释其非凡的色彩，从天的辉光绿色深蔚蓝色。

Examining the crystalline water of the top lake, I noticed that the leaves and branches settled on the bottom were acquiring a metallic coating.检查结晶水的顶端湖，我注意到，枝叶上解决的底部被收购的金属涂层。 It was the travertine process in action.这是钙华进程中的行动。 The water absorbs minerals from the dolomite underlying the upper lakes and coats the plant life, turning it to porous travertine stone.水吸收矿物白云石从根本上湖泊和大衣的植物的生命，把它以钙华多孔石。 The new travertine sprouts moss and plants that again petrify and the process repeats itself.新的钙华苔藓和豆芽厂再次惊吓的过程重演。 All the barriers separating the upper lakes are composed of travertine constantly growing and changing shape.所有分离的障碍上的湖泊是由钙华不断增加和不断变化的形状。

If you go to Plitvice, you don't need to stay long enough to turn to travertine but the park merits more time than it usually gets.如果你去普里特维采，你不需要保持足够长的时间转向钙华但公园的优点有更多的时间比通常得到。 Lying about 85 miles north of Zadar and south of Zagreb, many people rush through the park on their way to or from the coast.躺在约85公里和南部扎达尔萨格勒布，许多人急于通过公园的道路上或从海岸。 It's possible to see a lot of waterfalls in three or four hours but you'll need a number of days to fully explore the trails.这是有可能看到很多瀑布三，四个小时，但您需要的天数，充分探讨步道。 The three-star Hotel Jezero is the best of the park's three hotels but there are plenty of small pensions and private rooms in the villages around the park.三星级酒店湖是最好的公园的三家酒店，但有很多小养老金和私营室周围的村庄公园。

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